The Hitman has actually done a writeup on this in the past, but because I had actually the opportunity of performing this fix a couple days ago, ns figured I"d take a few pics and shot to assignment it the end as plainly as possible.First that all, this a task to be done sooner, not later. Mine scenario: ns purchased this automobile a couple weeks ago in "not running yet shouldn"t take much" condition. The vehicle has 247,xxx mi top top it. I"m the third owner, the very first being a center aged organization man who drove the approx 150 mi a day to work and also back, and the 2nd being a dumb child who had it for around 4 months and also killed it. Usually he walk out and tried to it is in a "mad tyte drifter" with a share car, and worse, original 240k mi timing chain guides.If you perform this task sooner fairly than later on you will conserve yourself a bunch that work. If girlfriend wait until things actually loss apart inside, then you will need to drop the oil pan as well as doing the regular timing chain replacement, no fun. I don"t have pics the the pan removed (I go it, however forgot pics ), but I will incorporate instructions in the writeup. Parts definitely required: (borrowed indigenous Greg"s thread) Chain <13028-8B000>Tensioner <13070-40F06>Tensioner guide <13091-40F03>Straight guide <13085-40F10>The 2 O-Ring Seals <15066-5E500> & <15066-40F11>Front Seal <13510-53J10>I introduce buying a finish timing kit, consisting of the sprockets. They can be had really reasonably from ebay or cheapo auto parts places. You deserve to go ahead and also get manufacturing facility parts if friend want, but they"ll be more expensive,and after ~ all, it is a SOHC KA .Recommended parts: cam Gear <13024-40F00>Crank equipment <13021-53J00>Other supplies: If the engine is run really long after the guide is demolished girlfriend will require a brand-new front timing cover due to the fact that the loose chain will certainly wear through the cover right into the water jacket, introducing coolant right into your oil, and the rest of her engine. If this wake up you will need a couple of oil filters and a couple of gallons of oil to do the washing up the oil system. (Mine remained in this condition.)Oil filter(s) (depending ~ above situation)Oil (might too buy it by the gallon if you need to flush it)Silicone gasket maker.Coolant/waterTools: (Borrowed from Greg again, I likewise used a few others)Assortment that Metric Sockets consisting of 27mm for Crank PulleyAssortment that Metric WrenchesAssortment of Metric Allen WrenchesChannel Locks (Adjustable Groove Pliers)Phillips #1 & #2 Screwdrivers ¼" Bladed (Flat-Tip) ScrewdriverLong Breaker BarTorque WrenchClaw HammerOil Filter WrenchCatch Pan18" Motorcycle Bungee through hooks6" 3-Arm Puller long Bar (Floor Jack Handle/Hoist Handle)Flexplate device (Automatic transmission Only)My additional listFloor jackJackstands1/2" influence driverOn to the writeup!First the all, place the vehicle in a ar where you deserve to work on it together conveniently together possible. I have actually mine on the lift in my shop, however you deserve to do it pretty much almost everywhere as long as you have it ~ above a good surface (I wouldn"t perform it top top dirt/gravel uneven I absolutely had to). If you need to drop the pan friend will definitely need concrete or asphalt. Begin by disconnecting/removing the battery. Drainpipe the oil and also the coolant. Then eliminate the input piping. Loosen the clamp at the accelerator body (10mm), eliminate the breather heat from the valve cover (squeeze clamp), and the two lines top top the pass side that the input piping about 6-8" ahead of the t/b. Eliminate the 2 plugs at the MAF and unclip the height of the airbox. Over there is additionally a water tap going into the earlier of the airbox, ease the clamp and remove it. There are two screws, one top top the fan shroud and also one on the radiator assistance (both 10mm). Eliminate them and then eliminate the whole intake piping/MAF/top the airbox.Next eliminate the valve cover. The is organized on v 8 10mm bolts. There is also a bolt/screw top top the front happen side the connects the cable harness support, remove it too.A pic reflecting the engine in ~ this point.
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Next remove the pan shroud. The reduced shroud has a little clip on every side, squeeze out it and move it towards the rear of the vehicle. The reduced shroud will just autumn off then. Then eliminate the hoses/wires running throughout the optimal of the shroud. The 2 hoses that go come the charcoal canister remove and also lay end on the pass side that the engine bay. The wires go to the coil etc. Unclip them and also lay them come the pass side as well. The various other 2 hoses I just unclipped from the shroud and layed up end the height of the engine. Walk ahead and remove the upper radiator water tap (10mm). Now remove the 2 bolt/screws in ~ the height of the shroud and also lift that out. Now remove the fan/fan clutch. It"s organized to the waterpump with 4 little nuts w/ washers. They"re a major pain, and also prone to drop/lose after you obtain them off. I organized a little magnet close to them if removing lock to prevent that.Here"s a pic at this point. Currently remove the reduced radiator hose (10mm) and also lift the radiator out. If you have actually an automatic equipped auto there have to be infectious diseases worldwide cooler lines to the radiator the will need removed as well. Now proceed to eliminate all the belts. The tensioner because that the p/s belt will have to be removed, as will certainly the p/s pump (don"t remove the lines, simply take it off and also zip tie it the end of the way) and also p/s pump bracket. The alternator doesn"t need to come out, however the height bracket has to be removed.Here"s a pic that the p/s pump zip tied turn off to the side.

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P/s pump bracket removal. There"s a 10mm bolt behind right here that friend need accessibility to.
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You can additionally remove the distributor in ~ this point. Just take the end the 2 12mm bolts that organize the distributor down and also remove the two bolts hold the wiring brackets on. Climate unplug it and also remove. Here"s a pic at this point.
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If you need to drop the pan, now is as good a time as any. Advanced the prior of the automobile up and also support it firmly (Jackstands). Make certain the parking brake is top top etc. Remove the nuts (one per) on the motor mounts (lower). Remove the engine come trans brackets, one every side, both organized on through a mixture the 14mm nuts and bolts. Now place a floor jack under the front edge of the transmission, I supplied a lengthy 4x4 (with the automobile on the lift) yet if your"s is low (remember, the higher the better) simply use a little block, and also jack the engine/trans up together high together they will certainly go without start to advanced the whole vehicle. Now remove all the oil pan bolts (iirc there"s 10 of "em, 10mm). Pry the pan down. As soon as it"s under (setting on the x member) you"ll need to remove the oil pickup tube. It"s a pain. 2 12mm bolts on the flange the the pickup and also one 10mm bolt hold the assistance to the crank girdle ~ above the motorists side. When the pickup is unbolted (just let it autumn into the pan) friend should be able to work the pan out to the front. You might experience clearance problems with the persuade bar. If girlfriend do, simply unbolt the brackets and also let it cave down. Clean the end the pan (It"ll be full of all kinds of crap, relying on how far the damage of guides/tensioner/chain etc had gone) and reinstall the (using RTV). Environment is reverse of removal, be certain to clean up the oil pickup too, and also don"t forget to re-install it, or your engine will certainly die a quick and also painful death! If girlfriend want, you can save the surroundings of the pan till after you"ve r&r"d the time cover, due to the fact that the front 2 oil pan bolts go into the timing cover, yet that"s up to you. The engine have the right to be lowered ago into location while the pan is eliminated with no problems, so if you desire to save the pan install until the time chain project is excellent you have the right to do that. Sufficient with the pan, earlier to the time chain!After the distributor is out, you have the right to go ahead and also remove the oil pump. It"s situated on the lower pass side of the timing cover.Here"s a pic of the oil pump.
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It"s held on with 4 12mm bolts. Remove them and it will drop ideal out, with a small rotating. ~ the oil pump is out, eliminate the oil pump/dist journey spindle. It adheres to the gear on the crank, therefore it demands rotated contempt to remove. Here"s a pic that the spindle installedNow remove the thermostat housing, 3 12mm bolts holding that on. I left it connected to the hose and also just swung it out of the way. Now remove the coolant box/elbow point (three 10mm bolts) and also the coolant nipple (two 12mm bolts), you have the right to leave them connected to their particular hoses and just move them out of the way. There"s a coolant hose attached to the ago side of the timing cover directly behind the thermostat, unclamp the (8mm) and also pull the loose. You can remove the water pump or not, depending upon wether or no you arrangement on replacing it (as basic a time as any to do it). If you"re working on one engine the was an ext or less intact (no guide carnage or anything) and also the timing is quiet on, go ahead and also rotate the engine to top dead center (tdc) through the crank wheel bolt. Currently you have to remove the pulley. I provided an impact gun,
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but if girlfriend don"t have one, placed the car in fifth gear (rear tires have to be steady on the ground and also parking brake engaged) and use a 27mm socket and driver/breaker bar to ease the bolt. Take the bolt out and take the washer turn off of it, and thread the a short way back into the crank snout. Then use a puller to eliminate the pulley. Do NOT use a puller there is no the crank bolt installed! The puller will certainly mess increase the subject in the crank snout!!Pic of removed the pulley-block w/ puller.
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Now friend should be able to remove every one of the time cover bolts and also remove the cover. There is one assortment the 10 and 12mm bolts holding the cover on. There are four 10mm bolts on peak from the head into the cover (one is behind that p/s bracket that you removed). There space two 10mm bolts indigenous the former of the oil pan up right into the timing cover (for those that didn"t need to remove the pan). There"s also one 10mm bolt hiding behind where the oil pump mounts, don"t miss it! many of the remainder are 12mm and pretty straightforward to find. As soon as you eliminate the sheathe there will certainly be part coolant that spills down into the pan. Don"t worry around it, just be sure to drain it well.A pic v the cover off (new components installed, forgot to take before pics)
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Stuff a pair paper towels into the former of the pan to stop anything native falling right into there!A pic through the chain, tensioner and also guide removed.
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Remove the chain by removing the electronic came bolt and sliding the cam sprocket off the cam. Then remove the guide and also tensioner (metric allen head bolts, can"t mental the size!). The tensioner actuator is held on with two 10mm bolts, take it it off and also replace it. Make certain you don"t permit the plunger and spring fall down right into the pan, placed those rags in there! Now, if you acquired a finish timing set (sprockets included, mine recommendation) you"ll need to pull the gear and sprocket turn off of the crank. It"s not lot fun, use the puller and dont forget the bolt in the prior of the crank.Pick the gear/sprocket removal.
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The large vice fixed is on there to save the jaws tightly engaged on the sprocket. Make sure you don"t place the jaw behind the woodruff key, friend don"t want to it is in trying to pull that the end too! currently you"re pretty lot ready to install everything. The place of the engine might have changed a small when you to be breaking the crank and cam bolts loose. TDC is approx as soon as the woodruff secrets on the crank are pointing straight up, and also when the dowel top top the camer is directly up. Install the crank sprocket and also oil pump/dist drive equipment (make sure you put it on the right way). The sprocket has a tiny timing mark on on of the teeth, the side faces away from the block. The drive gear has a shoulder on it, the shoulder encounters toward the block. I installed them by an initial heating castle (not absolutely necessary, but makes it a little easier) by putting them in a pot of water and also heating them for awhile. Ns then offered a very huge diameter deep drive socket and also a hammer to slide them on. They will certainly seat tightly against the shoulder top top the crank, you"ll feeling it once they"re all the means on. The timing mark on the crank sprocket should challenge at about 5 0"clock as soon as the engine is at tdc. Here"s a pic.
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Now take the timing chain. You"ll an alert that it has actually two special links (either darker than the others or lighter, I"ve viewed both). One of these links lines up v the timing mark on the crank sprocket, the other with the timing note on the video camer sprocket. A pic that the cam sprocket in suitable tdc position.
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You"ll have to gain the chain appropriately positioned on the gears before installing the electronic came gear, together there"s not sufficient slack in the chain to execute it otherwise. Acquire the point out aligned with the special web links on the chain and also then install the camer gear. You"ll have to run the bolt on to keep it in place, carry out NOT forget come tighten this bolt later!!! (Now you have the right to go ahead and also install the overview (drivers side) and tensioner (pass side) with their respective allen head bolts. Climate install the tensioner activator, and remove the tiny pin the holds the plunger in.
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Things should look prefer this.Now prep the time cover because that installation. Change the former crank seal through the one listed with the timing kit, and also clean/prep every the gasket surfaces. Usage silicone on every gasket surfaces and also install. It will be tight if you"re act this v the oil pan on, and also it might be vital to bend the front edge of the pan down slightly to provide the clearance needed. Make sure you don"t kink the or bending it significantly. Acquire the covering on and install every the bolts except the two 12mm bolts that host the alternator clip on. Currently go ahead and install all those coolant things on the pass side, all call for silicone. Good time to change the thermostat too. Pic of development at this pointYou deserve to now download the alternator bracket and put the alternator ago into place. Time for the oil pump/dist obelisk install. A pic that the distributor end of the shaft.

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It"s a tiny over-flashed, yet you deserve to see that it"s a star shaped column with a half moon protrusion in the end. When installed (at tdc) you desire the half moon to challenge directly forward. For this reason in the pic, visualize the the left side of the pic is towards the former of the car, that"s how you desire it. Native the oil pump finish the column is ground into a straight slot which should face straight up and down when properly mounted at tdc.Pic of the obelisk installed, former of the engine to the right.Now install the pump (you deserve to align the slot in the pump making use of a screwdriver) using the fiber gasket offered with your timing kit. The distributor can additionally be set up now. The rotor should allude to roughly 4:30 (#1 terminal top top the cap). If you took the plug wires off, you have the right to install lock now. Firing stimulate is 1,3,4,2 and also the rotor turns counter clockwise.You deserve to now install the crank pulley and torque the bolt. Torque the cam bolt currently as well. Now every little thing is pretty lot a issue of reinstalling everything. If i think of something of special prestige I"ll add it later.